Your bike’s clutch has a tough job to do. The clutch is responsible for coupling and decoupling your engine from the rear wheel so you can start, stopping, and shifting smoothly. But the clutch’s friction plates are consumable parts that will eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Fortunately, replacing your clutch is easier than it looks. In this video from MC Garage we’ll show you how it’s done.
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Like brake pads, tires, and chains, clutch plates are consumable components. If your clutch is slipping or shuddering, it's likely time to replace your friction plates. Popping open your engine to replace the clutch pack may seem intimidating, but it's actually a fairly straightforward and easy procedure ( click here for a look at your Clutch Components ). Here's how to do it.
Drain Any Oil Or Coolant From The Bike
Place your bike on a stand and drain the oil. If you don’t know how to change your motorcycle’s oil, we have an MC Garage that covers it. Alternatively, you can lay the bike on its side so the oil pools on the left side of the engine. If a radiator hose attaches to the right-side engine cover, you’ll need to drain the cooling system as well.
Disconnect Clutch Cable And Remove Clutch Cover
Disconnect the clutch cable if present and then remove the bolts holding the clutch cover in place. Note the location of any locating dowels, which may remain in the case or come off with the cover. Try to preserve the cover gasket, which can be reused. If the gasket is dry, cracked, or doesn’t come off in one piece, then replace it.
Remove The Clutch Friction Plates
Unscrew the clutch-spring bolts and remove the springs. Then lift the inner pressure plate away. Using your fingers and a pick, remove the clutch pack one plate at a time, looking for damaged or broken plates. Stack the parts in the order they were removed, noting the location of any judder springs or narrow friction plates.
Inspect The Clutch Basket For Damage
Inspect the outer basket for wear, which will appear as grooves on the driving face of the fingers. Usually, it’s just the friction plates that wear, but you’ll also want to inspect your steel plates for bluing. Your steel plates are the ones with the teeth on the inside, instead of the outside. We recommend changing all the friction and steel plates at the same time, but if you’re on a tighter budget, you can get away with just changing the friction plates. Replace the steel plates if they look burned since they may be warped.
Coat The Friction Plates In Oil And Install
Coat or soak your new friction plates in oil and install them. There is no benefit to letting them soak in oil for hours—or even overnight. This will only make replacing your clutch take longer than it should. Replace the pressure plate, making sure it properly mates with the splines on the inner hub. Install the springs and tighten the spring bolts to the torque listed in your manual. The spec is usually no more than 8 pound-feet of torque.
Reinstall The Clutch Cover And Cable
You can reuse the cover gasket if it’s in good condition, but a fresh one is always a good idea. Replace the cover, reattach the clutch cable, add oil, set your clutch-lever free play, and ride! Recheck your free play after 100 miles or so.
Dispose Of Your Old Oil And Used Clutch Plates Properly
Just like with every other motorcycle maintenance task that you complete, always dispose of the spent materials properly. Don’t go throwing the oil down your sink drain or in the apartment dumpster. Take it to your local auto parts store and they should have a recycling area for you to pour it into. Ride safe and have fun!